Jeff Smith grew up in a family of 10, where cooking was always a big deal. Since he was a kid, he had always wanted to be a cook and owning a restaurant. After learning some basics of cooking from his mother, Smith got into the restaurant business as soon as he was able to work, and has been in it for a little over 20 years and has some diverse experiences.

The Chameleon Cafe
“So I’d say I’m mostly self-trained because I had probably been cooking for six years before I went into culinary school; and then that just kind of refined things for me a little bit. Yeah, I’m kinda from the old school, before everybody was going to culinary school. Back when I started, nobody went to culinary school; it’s kind of a new thing.”
Chameleon Cafe is about to hit its eight year anniversary, but Smith also cooked at many restaurants around Baltimore, as well as spending some time in New Orleans. His time in Louisiana inspired him to try to come up with some local dishes using local ingredients for his Maryland Menu. It is the only menu he repeats every year because people love it and call the restaurant asking when it is coming back.

Jeff Smith (left) and his kitchen staff
Smith was taken by how much pride the New Orleans community had for their cuisine, and how the local dishes were “revered”, so he went and did a lot of research to dig up some old recipes; one of which is called “Chicken Maryland” out of a 100-year-old cookbook by Auguste Escoffier. The dish called for an ingredient that wouldn’t normally be associated with Baltimore, so Smith dug deeper.
“The Chicken Maryland had bananas, so I thought it was really odd that it was called Maryland. I thought maybe it was named after somebody that had the last name Maryland. We found out that Baltimore was a big banana port town at one time, like the second or third biggest banana importer in the country; so he must have came right when that was happening and bananas just must have been everywhere in Baltimore at that point.”
Smith brings a lot of traditional methods and recipes to the table at Chameleon Cafe, which is a converted rowhome on the corner of Montebello Terrace and Harford Road. I am working on editing the audio to put up the whole interview so check back!
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